(SHOE JARGON BUSTER; click above for larger view)
A good friend of mine recently asked me to impart my knowledge of Gentleman's Brogues; a sort of 'buyers guide' in layman's terms if you will, so true to my word here it is... but where to start?
With so much to say, and so little time, I should begin by stressing that a man's shoes are the most important items in his wardrobe and should be treated as such; well-cared for shoes always make their wearer looked well dressed, and needless to say will prolong the life of the shoe.
It should also be said that when buying bench made or indeed hand grade shoes there should be an appreciation of the living craft of shoemaking, a craft which blends centuries-old traditions with classic styling.
Sure, your nearest high st retailer will undoubtedly present you with an array of multicoloured footwear options to choose from (to my mind, more often than not, beastly, mass produced, cheap and distasteful...excuse the rant)
Personally, I'd rather invest my English pounds in shoes that will not only protect my dainty trotters from the toil of everyday life and look rather fetching, but showcase an art form that has been refined over the course 4000 years.
For basic types of classic men's shoes look no further than the 'Oxford' and 'Derby', both are categorized mostly by their style of construction, and both available as a plain, semi-brogue, or full brogue.
The quintessential 'Oxford', my shoe of choice is considered the most elegant, whilst 'The Derby' generally worn in continental Europe has a more 'robust' aesthetic.
The 'Brogueing' process is essentially a series of geometric holes punched out along the seams and/or toe cap of the shoe which produces decorative finish, as popularized by the Prince of Wales in the 1930's and countless gentlemen since.
For me, Northampton, synonymous with quality footwear is still the best place in the UK to buy high quality mens shoes, and indeed men's brogues. There are several factory shoe shops open to the public with a variety of shoe 'brands' for sale at reduced prices, and if you have particulary deep pockets shoemakers that still offer a bespoke service.
I could eulogise about the everlasting merits of John Lobb, Crockett and Jones, Church's, Tricker's, and Grenson (amongst others) but I fear I'm in danger of 'preaching to the converted', and if not, then where have you been gents?
To help you along your way, I have posted a 'Jargon Buster' guide to shoe terminology courtesy of Grenson (Please see the top of this post, and click for larger view)
Should you feel the need to dig a little deeper, then I can recommend the fantastic book 'Handmade SHOES FOR MEN' published by KONEMANN where you'll find a wealth of knowledge. (pictured below)
Credits: Handmade Shoes for Men by Lazslo Vass by Laszlo Vass. Copyright 1999, printed in Germany. 216 pages. ISBN-10: 3895089281
http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2009/01/09/grenson-jargon-buster/
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